Textile fibres and their characteristics

Occurring in nature; which are of animal, vegetable/plant, or mineral origin.

Animal origin; the silkworm creates its cocoon from very long silk fibres which are harvested from mulberry trees.

• Silk is naturally fine in texture and takes colour beautifully. Unrivalled in splendour and smoothness, silk is regarded as the most exclusive of all natural fibres.
• The greatest disadvantage in silk furnishings is their sensitivity to direct and reflected UV light, therefore it should not be used in direct sunlight or even bright light.
• Silk is an absorbent fibre, with potential to move in humid environments.
• Silk is a relatively strong fibre and can withstand a certain amount of abrasion, particularly when used in conjunction with a backing fabric.

Plant origin; derived from the cellulose fibres surrounding the seeds of the cotton plant.

• Cotton has good natural durability even stronger when wet.
• Can be affected by mildew, however, a mildew resistant finish can be applied.
• Generally has reasonable UV resistance but should be protected with a quality lining when used as a drapery and protected from direct sunlight when used as an upholstery. Cotton's UV resistance can be greatly reduced in acidic polluted conditions.
• It is an absorbent fibre which means it can move with changing humidity levels.
• Cotton may shrink with laundering but this can be reduced through a finishing process known as sanforising.

Plant origin; derived from the cellulose fibres growing inside the stalks of the flax plant.

• Linen is regarded as a luxury fibre because of its lustre and texture.
• As with cotton, linen is vulnerable to acidic pollution and can be affected by mildew, causing the fibre to deteriorate over time.
• Considered to be the strongest natural fibre, when constructed for upholstery it is very durable, particularly when blended with up to 10% nylon.
• It is an absorbent fibre which means it can move with changing humidity levels.
• Linen is moderately UV resistant and should be protected by a quality lining when used as a drapery, and protected from direct sunlight when used as an upholstery.

Plant origin; Viscose/rayon is a transparent fibre made of processed cellulose. Cellulose fibres from wood or cotton are dissolved in alkali to make a solution called viscose, which is then extruded through a nozzle or spinneret into an acid bath to reconvert the viscose into cellulose. The term 'viscose' is widely used in Europe, whilst 'rayon' is American terminology.

• The soft handle and beautiful lustre provides a luxury finish, and viscose can be adapted from fine to heavy fibres to meet requirements.
• Can be affected by mildew.
• A very absorbent fibre, it will move with changing humidity levels. Often movement in the fabric is apparent when viscose is used as the warp yarn, but when blended with stable fibres this issue is minimised.
• Viscose is not regarded as a UV resistant fibre and should always be lined when used as drapery and protected from direct sunlight when used as an upholstery.

Animal origin; a natural animal fibre made from sheep fleece.

• Wool has regained popularity in interiors with growing demand for quality natural products.
• Pure wool compositions are not considered to be suitable for curtains, unless protected from direct sunlight due to sensitivity to UV light, which can make wool brittle and weak. Blending wool with synthetic fibres can reduce this sensitivity.
• The crimp and fine molecular structure of this fibre ensures woollen textiles are elastic, allowing the yarn to stretch when pulled and helping it return to its original form. When used in tightly woven constructions wool can be very durable.
• Cloth moth larvae, bacteria, and mildew can deteriorate and weaken the fibre over time.
• Wool enjoys the natural benefits of being inherently flame retardant, dirt repellent, anti-static and temperature regulating.

Of man-made origin, not occurring naturally. Manufactured from different raw materials.

• Acrylic fibres can be manufactured and woven for a specific use, from fine sheers to heavy upholsteries, with a very good drape and handle.
• Durability and abrasion resistance is good when produced for upholstery application, but it can be susceptible to pilling.
• Excellent UV resistance. Most gradual colour change can be attributed to varying qualities in the dyestuffs used during production, rather than to the fibre itself.
• Generally not affected by mildew or acidic pollution.
• Acrylics are strong and stable, non-absorbent fibres.

• Nylon can be manufactured and woven for specific use, from fine sheers to heavy upholsteries.
• The fibre is generally not affected by mildew.
• Long exposure to UV light will affect nylon and weaken the yarn over time.
• A very strong and stable fibre that is often blended with other fibres to improve durability for upholstery application.

• Polyester fibres can be manufactured and woven for a specific use, from fine sheers to heavy upholsteries, with a very good drape and handle.
• Durability, abrasion resistance, and UV light resistance is generally very good.
• A non-absorbent fibre, it will move very little in humid conditions.
• Not affected by acidic pollution or mildew.
• A strong and stable fibre.
• Wrinkle resistance with very good recovery.

• A synthetic yarn from the polyolefin family which is a by-product of the petrochemical industry. Olefin, polyolefin and polypropylene share the same performance characteristics and are generally used to manufacture outdoor textiles.
• They are most suitable for outdoor application when the fabric has been solution dyed, i.e. the fibre is dyed in solution form prior to being extracted and manufactured into a yarn. Solution dyed fabrics give the best possible resistance against colour fading from direct UV exposure. The production of these yarns are generally environmentally friendly, being recyclable and resulting in minimal waste.
• Excellent colourfastness and resistance to fading.
• Fast drying.
• A strong fibre with excellent abrasion resistance.
• Resistant to stains, mildew, and chemicals making it easy to clean.

DID YOU KNOW?
Solution dyed polypropylene/olefin/polyolefin generally meet the pilling and abrasion requirements for commercial heavy duty upholstery whereas solution dyed acrylic usually won’t surpass requirements for medium duty residential upholstery. 

CS Trevia is an inherently FR polyester yarn created by adding phosphate during the yarn production process. Trevira is a trademarked yarn and is used globally for many contract applications.

Dralon is the trademarked name for a highly durable acrylic yarn made by Bayer in Germany, which has historcally produced cost effective velvets.

Microfibre is a term for fibres with strands thinner than one denier (1/60th of a human hair). Fabrics made with microfibres are exceptionally soft and hold their shape well. Microfibres are so fine it is difficult for moisture or stains to penetrate the yarn, giving them an inherently easy care finish. If microfibre is made from a synthetic yarn the fabric will be washable and generally stains will be relatively easy to remove.

In summary, fabrics are only as good as the textile fibres they are constructed from. If you understand the inherent characteristics of the fibres within a fabric you can better understand the performance and potential application. Not discussed above are the combination and blending of fibres within fabrics, these should always be considered along with the technical specifications of a finished fabric.