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We've compiled a selection of commonly asked questions and frequently given answers to help you during your visit.

Textile Terms
What is embroidery

Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins.

What is a Jacquard Weave?

A Jacquard fabric weave is characterized as being highly textured with large intricate designs, woven on a specific Jacquard loom in a process invented in the early 1800’s by Joseph Marie Jacquard. A series of punched cards relating to the motif, regulate the raising of stationary warp thread mechanisms. The introduction of electronic Jacquard looms in the 1980’s and subsequent computerization has resulted in jacquard fabrics becoming more efficient, higher quality and easier to produce.

What is Appliqué?

Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces or patch of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments.

What is a warp/weft of a woven fabric?

WARP – The yarns that run vertically or lengthwise, in woven fabrics. Textile fabrics are woven using warp yarns, referred to as ends.

WEFT – An individual yarn running horizontally or across the fabric which interlaces with the warp yarn at right angles in weaving fabric. Also known as a filling pick. 

Read more here.

How is a coated lining made and what is it made of?

The manufacturing process of a thermal lining involves a thermal coating being applied directly to the reverse side of the fabric to reduce the amount of harmful ultraviolet light passing through the fabric, whilst increasing the insulation. Learn about our UV Pro products here.

What is the difference between 1 pass and 3 passes in coating?

THERMAL - One layer (1 Pass) of coated acrylic suede compound is known as thermal lining. It offers the advantages of insulation and energy savings, helping to keep a room warm in the winter and cool in the summer. It is important to understand that a certain amount of light will pass into the room with this construction. As with all quality linings, thermal lining not only protects soft furnishings from fading, they are also treated to resist mildew and enables good drapability. The manufacturing process of a thermal lining involves a thermal coating being applied directly to the reverse side of the fabric to reduce the amount of harmful ultraviolet light passing through the fabric, whilst increasing the insulation.

BLACKOUT - Three layers (3 Pass) of coated acrylic suede compound is known as ‘blackout’ thermal lining. This process offers the same benefits of thermal lining but also totally eliminates light penetration. Blackout lining naturally minimizes the risk of natural flaws in the fabric from showing through. It also adds body to the fabric and provides a good stable base for roman blinds.

Mélange Yarn

Mélange yarn is a blend of two or more different coloured fibres to develop various shades in the yarn. Different ratio of fibres in the blend alters the uniqueness of spun mélange yarn.

Heathered Yarn

Heathered yarn is spun using pre-dyed fibres. These fibres are blended together to give a particular look. (For example, black and white may be blended together to create a heathered yarn that is grey in color.) The term, heather, may also be used to describe the fabric made from heathered yarns.

Eyelash Yarn

Eyelash yarn is a type of novelty yarn. It is constructed with the use of a thread base, with several long strands spaced at even intervals. These strands jut out from the main strand at angles giving the appearance of an eyelash.


This effect is created in the finishing. Embossing rollers are engraved with a crepe pattern which imprints a crepe effect onto the fabric through heat and pressure. 

Chenille Yarn

A pile fabric woven using chenille yarns, usually in the weft, to produce a fabric usually softer and less uniform appearance than velvet. The yarn is produced by binding short fibers (2-3 mm) into twisted yarns to form the distinctive appearance and handle.

Boucle Yarn

Created by using any fibre, the Boucle yarn construction uses looped and drawn out yarn. It has a curly appearance and is derived from the French term “boucler”, meaning to curl or buckle into ringlets.

What is Cross Dyeing?

Cross dyeing is a process in which different fibres in a blend are dyed different hues in the same dye bath. The different compositions in the blend takes the dye differently creating a multi-toned effect.

What is Space Dyeing?

Multi coloured yarns are created using this space dyeing technique. Colourants are applied using this technique to the yarn at intervals to achieve random or regular multi coloured effect.

What is Solution Dyeing?

Solution dying is a process where the pigment or colour is bonded in the solution and colour fibre is extruded. Colour goes through the entire fibre and is clear, clean, and fast. 

Yarn Dye vs Piece Dye. What is the difference?

The colour of the fabric can be applied to the overall design in two ways. Yarn Dyed fabric is where the yarn has been dyed prior to weaving the fabric. Piece Dyed fabric is woven as greige or natural and then dyed “as a piece”. 

What is Batch Dyeing?

The fabric is subject to the dying process in lots or batches. This is to create a consistent colour across the full production. 

What is Basket Dyeing?

Basket dyeing is when a fabric is dyed and tumble washed at the same time. An artisanal process which creates a unique, irregular, and vintage appearance.

What is the difference between topical & inherent Flame-Retardant Fabric?

Topical flame retardant is where a chemical treatment is applied to a fabric. When that treatment is exposed to flame a gas is emitted and oxygen precluded, causing the flame to be extinguished. As this is a topical treatment it can be subject to deterioration over time, and also the emitted gas is usually fairly toxic. Inherent flame retardant is where the fibre itself contains the flame inhibitor. The latter is a more permanent for the life of the fabric and cannot wash or wear off.  See our flame-retardant products here

What is a vertical half drop pattern repeat/match?

This is when the pattern does not match exactly on each side of the fabric roll. It matches half a vertical drop down instead. Dropping the designs half, a repeat helps deceive the eye and makes the fabric look “wider” with “less joins”. 

What is a direct/standard pattern repeat/match?

This is one of the most common type of pattern match. The pattern is matched straight across the roll from the selvedge to selvedge. This makes for a tidy join when two drops are placed directly beside each other. 

Railroading fabric for upholstery.

Applying fabric to furniture so that the weft or filling yarns run vertically. By turning the fabric 90 degrees from the direction it was woven allows a length of fabric to be used to cover an entire sofa back without prominent seams.


Extremely fine manufacturing fibre or filament of 1 decitex or less. 

Product Information
How often do you add new products to your collections?

Across the three brands of James Dunlop Textiles Group – Mokum, James Dunlop and Zepel, we are constantly developing and creating new and exciting products to be released. Due to the nature of the ever-evolving Textile Industry, we are continually updating our collections to match the current and upcoming trends. 

Are the images on the James Dunlop website accurate for colour and scale?

Flat shots and in-situ imagery on our website are intended as a visual representation only. Designs are not 100% to scale and additionally, we do try represent colours accurately on-screen, however we cannot guarantee exact colour match due to variance in screen colour calibration. It is recommended that a sample be requested for colour and scale prior to any placement of orders.

What is the Blue Scale?

The Blue Scale is used for assessing the light fastness of printed or dyed fabrics and textiles.  
The scale graduates from light (1) to dark (8), the higher the rating, the better the resistance. A score of 1/8 is very poor, and 7/8 is exceptionally good.

Learn more about colour fastness here.

How do I know if the product is available?

Product stock holding is shown on the individual product page. 

* You must be a client and logged into the website to view this information.

Care Codes

Care Code symbols and definitions can be downloaded here.

Colour Standards

All colours utilise quality dye stuffs and should give satisfactory service under normal conditions.

Colour matching to previous deliveries or sample swatches cannot be guaranteed.

What is a fabric pill?

A ‘pill’ or more commonly known as a bobble, fuzz ball, or lint ball is a small ball of fibres that form on the face of a piece of fabric.  It is caused by abrasion between two surfaces. Loose fibres have a natural tendency to move to the surface of a piece of fabric, where they are subject to friction, this causes the fibres to twist together into small balls  

Pilling is more noticeable on synthetic fibres.  This is mainly because natural fabrics shed loose fibres easily and less noticeably, while man-made fibres are extremely strong, so the pills are anchored strongly to the fabric.

Learn more about fabric pilling here.

Learn more about textile testing for pilling here.

Transfer pilling is when the pilling is a different colour to the main base fabric. This occurs when two fabrics have pilled together.  Clothing, throw rugs or cushions are normally the cause.

As pilling is not a fabric defect or fault it is not covered under warranty.

For more information on pilling please read this article: Understanding fabric pilling

What is a Wyzenbeek test?

A Wynzenbeek test is an American abrasion test for upholstery fabrics, measured in double rubs, and created through a specified weight applied in a backwards and forwards motion, creating a 'double rub'.

Learn more about textile testing for abraision resistance here.

What is FR?

FR stands for Flame Retardant.  FR properties can be either inherent in the yarn or applied as a finish.  Inherent FR cannot be washed out and generally achieves a high certification for fire retardancy.  An after-market or solution finish can also achieve a good FR rating in the short term but may lessen over time depending upon how the fabric is treated.

The responsibility for attaining the appropriate FR certification is the role of the Specifier, as every project and location has a different requirement with varying context. See our FR products here

What are Martindale Rubs/Cycles?

Martindale is a test used in Europe, the UK, Australia and New Zealand, for measuring the resistance to abrasion (rubs), as a means of assessing wearability in upholstery fabrics. It is created by applying a specific weight to the fabric, using a circular motion. Small samples of the fabric to be tested are mechanically rubbed against a standard abradant material and the number of cycles (rubs) is assessed at “endpoint”, i.e., when a number of threads are broken.

The number of Martindale rubs is recorded for your perusal on every fabric specification sheet.

As a rough rule of thumb:
Up to 12000 - Light use (occasional furniture)
13000-20000 - Residential
21000 and above - Commercial

Learn more about textile testing for abrasion resistance here.

What is railroading?

Railroading is applying fabric to furniture so that the weft or filling runs vertically. Turning it 90 degrees from the direction that it came off the loom. When railroaded, a length of fabric can be used to cover an entire sofa back without prominent seams.

Many upholstery fabrics are designed so that they can be railroaded. This means that if you turn the bolt on end and roll out the fabric from left to right, the pattern would be continuous across the roll. Fabric which is woven this way is particularly useful in sofas. If a fabric can be railroaded, this eliminates seams on the outside back of a large sofa. If a fabric is not woven to be railroaded, the fabric is used off the roll.

What are your minimums?

The minimum order size is 1 metre. 

Do you supply other products that are not on your website?

We are unable to show every design from our extensive range.

However, if you would like to contact us with a product name/design/number or idea of what you are looking for we can suggest products that fit that description.

Textile Constructions & Finishes

A glazed, plain weave fabric of cotton where the chintz finish is produced by calendaring. This provides more of a durable finish to the fabric. However, it must be noted that no cotton chintz finish is permanent. This will be progressively reduced after dry cleaning or completely removed after washing. 


A fabric usually of jacquard construction and usually self-coloured in which the pattern is produced by the contrasting luster or reflection created by warp and weft satin weaves.


A fabric produced by the Ikat method which originated in the Indonesia and Malaysia, where the design is produced by selective resist dyeing of the warp and/or weft yarns prior to weaving, to create the typical soft, geometric design.


Open work fabric usually with a ground of mesh or net on which patterns are worked either as the ground is made or at a later stage. The yarns are looped, twisted, or knotted to achieve the openness of the fabric and the pattern. 


Woven fabric where some warp yarns are made to diagonally cross other warp yarns between the picks by a special mechanism on the loom. This allows yarns that are widely spaced to be firmly held in place.


A double compound fabric with a quilted appearance sometimes accentuated using wadding threads.


The effect moire describes a fabric which as been subjected to heat and heavy pressure by specially constructed rollers, to present a rippled or watermarked appearance. The effect is caused by the differential reflection from flattened and unflatten parts of the fabric.


A pattern upholstery fabric with areas of warp pile where the loops are left intact. (uncut moquette) or the loops have been cut by wires or blades (cut moquette).


A French term meaning shaded which is often used to describe a fabric in which the colours are graduated from light to dark, and often into stripes of varying shades. 


A generic term used to describe semi transparent fabrics such as voile, muslin, organza, and net. 


Suede is a type of leather with a napped finish, commonly used for jackets, shoes, shirts, purses, furniture, and other items. 


One of the oldest fabrics known to mankind, this is named after the Persian fabric “taftan”. A plain weave, closely woven, crisp fabric, smooth on both sides, with a typical crunchy handle. Traditionally made from silk, but now silk/ viscose and other silk mixtures, as well as polyester/ viscose. 


Originally a closely woven fabric in which coloured threads were inserted by hand to produce a figured pattern. Nowadays the term is more loosely used to describe fabrics in which the pattern is created by the use of two or more different types of yarn in each direction.


Originally a woolen fabric of 2/2 twill, woven in checks of various colours, and worn by Scottish clans, each having its own distinctive pattern. Now descriptive of a wider range of fabrics with this type of patterning. Tartans are sometimes plaids. 


French word for fabric, and now also implies fabric of a certain type, i.e. a plain weave, light to medium weight cotton.  


A pile fabric in which the pile is woven into the warp. The effect is produced in one of two ways; either by the weaving of loops which are cut as wires and withdrawn from each row, or effectively weaving two fabrics face-to-face; joined together by the pile thread and finally separated by a knife as the fabric comes off the loom. 

There are 2 common velvet constructions, V and W weaves.

'V' weave is where two layers of fabric with connecting threads are cut apart. Often 'V' woven velvets have a coating applied on the reverse side to hold the pile fibres in place. 

'W' weave, where additional warp threads are lifted over wires forming loops. These loops are then cut when the wires are withdrawn. A 'W' weave has a more secure pile and is a superior and more expensive cloth.

To find out the type of weave a velvet has draw out a single thread from the pile (near the selvage) and see whether it resembles a simple 'V' or a 'W' which has a kink in the middle.

Learn more about velvet here.


Vinyl is a man-made, non-woven plastic material, sometimes laminated onto a fabric backing. Vinyl coated fabrics are commonly used as upholstery covers. Often vinyl-coated fabrics are created to resemble leather.

Website Tutorial Videos
Introduction to Website

Introduction to the James Dunlop website, basic features and how to navigate the site.

Product Search

Tutorial on how to search for fabrics and products on the website.

Client Login

How to login as a client to view additional website information that is not visible to non clients.

Account & Order Information
How do I track my delivery?

When your order is dispatched, you should receive an email which will include a link to track your order via the courier's website. You can also find this link when logged into your website trade account; select the appropriate invoice number, then"Track shipment" under shipping details to track and trace the delivery of your order. 

Do you sell direct to the public?

No we do not - James Dunlop Textiles are a wholesale supplier for the furniture trade. Please contact your nearest retailer to specify our products.


Within two years of purchase James Dunlop Textiles will replace any fabric that is found to be faulty as a result of textile manufacturing defects and has been:

• Manufactured to industry standard practices and procedures.
• Properly maintained and professionally cleaned on a regular basis.
• Applied and/or used normally for its intended residential or single shift commercial installation.
• Protected from sunlight damage.
• Not subject to third party after treatment.

Warranties are extended to the invoiced purchaser only. Any claims must be made via the invoiced purchaser.


Social Responsibility

Please see our About Us page for information on Social Responsibility & Sustainability

Indent Stock Orders

Indent stock is held at our European suppliers warehouses, so delivery schedules can take 2-3 weeks.

When will I receive my order?

Whenever possible, orders are processed the same day as received. To ensure our fastest service please include fabric cuts.

Contact details for orders:

SYDNEY Phone: 02 9304 5900 Fax: 02 9669 3003
MELBOURNE Phone: 03 9811 4100 Fax: 03 9813 2719
BRISBANE Phone: 07 3620 4100 Fax: 07 3257 3522
ADELAIDE Phone: 08 8332 8372 Fax: 08 8332 8229
PERTH Phone: 08 9284 2622 Fax: 08 9382 2519

When your order is processed, a confirmation will be electronically transmitted. Please check it carefully to ensure all details are correct. Advise any errors immediately.

A $20 small order handling fee and freight costs applies to all deliveries under a value of $150.00 excl GST.

Shipping & Delivery

Should an item be temporarily unavailable, an acknowledgment confirming anticipated arrival will be issued.  If this later delivery is not acceptable, you must formally cancel your order.

All deliveries must be approved prior to manufacture for colour matching, handle and general suitability. Any possible claims will be subject to this clause.

Where deliveries are made to third parties, it is your responsibility to check that the correct fabric/wall covering is received. We strongly advise that a sample is sent to you from your third party for verification when goods are received.

Not all fabrics are rolled face in. If you are ordering a fabric that could be made up either side, we recommend you send a cutting to your workroom confirming the preferred face.

Full roll orders

The international industry standard for acceptable flaws in roll stock is 5 flaws per 50m of fabric.

Please note James Dunlop Textiles adheres to this standard and will not accept returns that meet this criteria.

Ordering & Information on our website

Throughout the year we release new collections and products. For availability please refer to our website

The Client Login section of our website allows you to:

  • View detailed product information and specifications
  • Check available stock and piece sizes
  • View piece prices (where applicable)
  • Check wholesale pricing (and see if a discount is available on any product)  
  • Purchase short ends at a 50% discount
  • Download price lists and other useful guides
  • Quickly search products by use/width/attribute
  • Save your favourite products and check availability in two easy clicks
  • Track your orders
  • Place new orders
  • Request loan samples
  • Perform account enquiries  
  • Reprint documents.

If you haven’t used our Client Login section before please look at the online tutorial, under 'Client Login' found here.

Please email if you have any questions.

Payment Terms

Proforma Accounts - Strictly net pricing. Goods will be dispatched after payment is received.

Trade Account - Payment by 20th of the month following purchase for credit approved customers. Overdue accounts subject to interest.

Prices are “Cash Prices” for settlement by cash/cheque or direct credit to our bank account. We reserve the right to adjust the price if payment is made by other means. We reserve the right to withhold the supply of goods unless these terms are met.

Please refer to our full terms and conditions here.


What is your return & claims policy?

Please examine all goods before cutting. An uncut fabric order, over 10m in total may be returned, subject to a 30% restocking fee plus return freight cost.

We are unable to accept claims of any nature, including colour variation, after the fabric has been cut. This includes orders delivered to a third party, i.e. workroom or furniture factory, etc.

It is normal for fabrics to appear slightly ‘off square’ – this is due to finishing processes and provided lengths are cut to pattern rather than to weft, made up drapes will hang satisfactorily. In fabrics with a horizontal pattern, allow a tolerance of up to 2cm, from the centre of the width, for bowing.

Returns can only be accepted if accompanied by the reason for the return and also the relevant invoice number. All goods are supplied on the understanding that our liability for any defect is limited to a sum not exceeding the invoiced value of the fabric.

Goods must be returned ‘Rolled full width on tubes, with care.’

Can I order directly from the website?

Yes, we have an e-commerce section on our website which you can also use to check on stock holdings of each product.

* You need an account to order through the website.

How do I open an account or trade with James Dunlop Textiles?

Please contact James Dunlop Textiles for an ‘Expressions of interest’ questionnaire that we can send/e-mail to you. After you have completed the questionnaire and returned it to us, it will be evaluated.

If it meets our criteria a James Dunlop representative will contact you and send you an ‘Account Application Form’ for you to complete and return.

What are your payment terms?

Fabrics are supplied to trade customers on a wholesale only basis according to the following terms: 

  • Approved Credit Account: Strictly net 30 days from statement date. 
  • No Approved Credit Account: Proforma Account - In the absence of approved credit arrangements payment for all goods must be made prior to the release of goods for delivery. 
  • We reserve the right to withhold supply of goods unless these terms have been met. 


Can I cancel an order?

It is not possible to cancel orders which have been especially imported by prior negotiation.

We are, however, able at times to cancel orders, provided the goods have not been cut or dispatched. James Dunlop Textiles cannot be held liable for goods supplied correctly to order and subsequently cancelled by the end purchaser. In some cases, there may be a ‘cut fee’ for cancelled orders (this is to cover the time taken to process the credit, inspect and manually add the stock back into the system). 

Please direct all requests for cancellation to the James Dunlop Commercial Sales Co-ordinator on (09)623 6005 (option 1).


Can't find the answer to your question?

Our customer service team is here to help:

Freecall 0800 933 586