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Journal

An insight into viscose

Viscose, or Rayon, has been popular in fashion and soft furnishings since the early 1900s due to marrying cost-effective production with the extremely soft handle and subtle sheen of natural fibres.

Although viscose begins as a natural fibre, it is different from products like linen and cotton because it undergoes a manufacturing process. During this process, wood pulp is dissolved in alkali to make the solution called viscose, which is then squeezed through a nozzle or spinneret into an acid bath to create filaments called regenerated cellulose, and finally spun into yarn.

As with all natural fibres, viscose has a unique personality and requires special care. In this article we will discuss the characteristics of this versatile fabric, whether it is the right choice for your next project, and its unexpected enemy – H2O.

 

Characteristics of Viscose

  • Viscose is known for a soft handle, luxurious appearance, and subtle natural lustre. It can be engineered to resemble other natural fibres such as linen cotton and silk, while generally being more cost effective.
  • Viscose yarn absorbs and holds dye well, especially when piece dyed, therefore it has the ability to reflect vibrant, bold colours. A fabric that contains a viscose component can have the same fabric dye processes, finishes, and printing applications as other natural fibres.
  • An absorbent fibre it is less durable when wet. We recommend that fabric qualities with a high percentage of viscose yarn are not washed or spot cleaned with water because this can result in watermarks. In most cases we recommend a professional dry clean for compositions with a high viscose content.
  • As a cellulose based fibre, viscose does not retain heat as well (this characteristic mostly applies to the fashion apparel industry).
  • As with all natural fibres, viscose is susceptible to fading in direct sunlight due to the extreme UV conditions in Australasia and we recommend you are mindful of where natural fibres are situated in the home. In a drapery situation we always recommend a quality lining to protect the face fabric.
  • Fabrics composed of viscose yarn are extremely versatile and can be used in drapery, upholstery, and accessory applications. We don’t typically recommend using viscose fabrics for bedding due to viscose generally being dry clean only.

Learn more about what makes viscose yarn unique, how to appropriately care for it and why this versatile creation should be celebrated and not feared here.

Considerations when using viscose fabrics

Colour Loss or Bleeding:

Viscose can fade and bleed in certain circumstances. Spills, particularly alcohol, perfume, hair treatments, and urine may permanently discolour viscose fabrics. Avoid using spotting agents that contain alcohol, mineral acids, and bleaches.

Cellulose Browning:

Viscose fibres contain natural cellulose fibres. If your fabric remains wet for too long after cleaning the fabric may turn brown, particularly if alkaline cleaning products are not rinsed thoroughly from the fabric.

Watermarks:

Treatments applied to viscose and other natural fibres will leave a 'ring mark' or 'watermark' from spills of any sort, even just clear water. These watermarks may be permanent and any cleaning must be done by evenly dampening the entire fabric. 

Fabric Weakness:

Viscose may lose up to 70% of its strength when wet, resulting in implications such as the fabric ripping during cleaning or dry cleaning.

Texture Distortion:

Velvet and chenille fabrics made with viscose face yarns need careful grooming immediately after cleaning to prevent permanent distortion. The larger the nap (fibres that stick upwards) the more tracking (sway marks) will appear.

Carefully considering the strengths and weaknesses of a fabric when commencing your next project will ensure that it is fit for purpose and maintains its aesthetic appeal over time. When utilised in the right circumstances and shown the appropriate care, viscose is a versatile natural fabric that can add value to the texture and longevity of your interior design decoration.

All James Dunlop and Mokum textiles are tested for pilling, abrasion resistance, seam slippage, and colourfastness in Melbourne at an independent laboratory. The testing criteria are amongst the most conservative in the world due to the extremely harsh environmental conditions we face in Australi...