The Mokum Studio recently spent a week at the Proposte trade fair in Lake Como, Italy. Stephanie Moffitt, Mokum’s Design Director, gives us an insight into the exhibition and key textile trends we observed.
“I’ve been going there for quite some time now and this year it seemed like one of the best fairs we’ve been to. It felt like we were coming out of the GFC and starting to see a lot more investment in technology, constructions and yarns – which was really nice. Of course it is a beautiful place to visit and the lake itself lives up to all the photographs that you see. It really is an exceptional location and we’re very lucky to go every year and experience its fantastic trade fair,” Stephanie enthuses.
Proposte is the gathering of the best high-end European mills. Though the exhibitors are primarily Italian, with a number of the mills based in the Como area, the fair also features other European mills and has even extended beyond that in recent years as it has become more popular.
The exhibition is held on the grounds of the magnificent Villa Erba, which sits on the shores of Lake Como. The fair isn’t just limited to the exhibition hall (which is actually quite small) where the mills show their collections. “The whole town of Cernobbio is taken over by the fair and it is a wonderful place to get an insight into some magnificent Italian homes, many on the lake front, which are hired out for the week for exhibition. Some of the mills go to great measures, decorating the fronts of the homes or just hanging their fabrics in the stunning spaces,” says Stephanie. “We spend the week walking between these homes and going to the exhibition centre.”
“In the case of Mokum we were looking for constructions and ideas to bring into our collections over the next year or so. What we found at the fair will impact on 2019 so that gives you an idea of how far ahead we plan.”
Stephanie also documented key trends from the fair and shares three key themes:
“In terms of current trends, it’s not like twenty years ago when any one trend overtook the market, such as a printing style or a construction, and became very strong. That doesn’t really happen anymore. Everything is so much more fractured and layered which I believe is a good thing. It shows a confidence in our industry, allowing our designers to be much more eclectic with their style and homes to reflect the personal taste of those who live in them rather than a single look taking over interiors,” she explains. “In saying that, there were still a few strong themes. One that has been around for a while, but is still very evident, was ‘tribal’. It was great to see this theme because it is one we have developed within the Mokum brand, forming inspiration for recently released collections. It was good to see it is still present and evolving.”
The above images show two takes on ‘tribal’ from an Indian and a Belgian mill. “What I love about the world of textiles is that it is so culturally-based and every country has its own style and flavour – something we need to maintain and adapt,” stresses Stephanie. “These textiles were very earthy, very raw and fibre driven.”
The above images are an Italian take on tribal, albeit heading in a Moroccan direction. “This referenced where we believe textiles are heading over the next eighteen months – heavy texture, multi-coloured yarns and a lot of velvet, but interpreted in a way that is very contemporary and cool. It’s another take on the ‘tribal’ element and reflects the popularity of the Beni Ourain Moroccan rugs. This collection was beautifully coloured and very playful.”
“It gives us confirmation of being on trend with the Mokum collection Nomad and shows it is still very current. The ideas of embroidery, African patterns woven in velvet and of course Berber-inspired rugs are still really relevant and we think these collections have a lot of longevity,” says Stephanie.
2. DARK LUXURY
Next up was a completely different look and one that has been infusing the Mokum Studio’s current product development – the idea of dark luxury. This Italian mill produced an ode to Zelda Fitzgerald, creating a collection that was very decadent and beautiful, delivering a plush and romantic environment. This look was very sophisticated with lots of printed velvet and velvet jacquard constructions. Stephanie comments that “You’re going to see even more velvet in the market over the next couple of years with it being interpreted in many different ways. Digital printing is still very big and these jewel-tone palettes, particularly petrol tones and really deep dark colours, are coming through. The deco influence is still strong and of course we’ve touched on that with Catherine Martin as well."
Our latest interpretation of that current trend is Bespoke which embraces this luxurious theme and colour palette and has launched in our latest Catherine Martin collection Majorelle. It is a beautiful custom-dyed Italian velvet with an extensive and theatrical colourline.
Key products from the Equator collection also speak to the dark luxury theme, particularly our Couture satin and Vintage velvet which has these wonderful jewel-tones and deep shades. Equator very much has a tropical tone to it which leads us into our third theme, tropical, which is still ever-present.
Tropical print is now a design perennial, with iconic patterns like the Monserrat leaves and the banana palm tree originating from Beverly Hills Martinique wallpaper. “Tropical has really become huge in the last couple of years and it’s here to stay for a while longer. We think it has become an classic interior design theme. At Proposte we saw silks woven in tropical patterns, we saw it tone-on-tone and we saw it bold, embroidered and printed, so we’re going to see more and more of this look over the next 18 months. The Catherine Martin Paradiso collection speaks to this trend and its most popular design is very dramatic – the beautiful Flamingo – which we are thrilled about as it’s great seeing people taking some risks with designs like this. It has been used both indoors and outdoors, as it is a high performance indoor/outdoor fabric.”
We end our Proposte wrap up with Mokum’s take on key colour trends and with Stephanie highlighting the colours which really spoke to the product team. “Millennial soft pink is becoming more peach and is being referred to as ‘second skin’. It’s moving away from the blue base and heading more warm and orange. It sits beautifully with green shades and I think Pantone ‘greenery’ has really created this surge of green in the market place. We saw it broadly showcased with a wide variety of green shades, from citrus to forest and these mid-tones as well. Also, teal and deep indigo shades as mentioned earlier are particularly popular and deep berry tones anchored neutral schemes.”
Published June 19, 2017
These were some of the key trends that the Mokum Studio found at Proposte this year, which will evolve and inform their 2018 and 2019 collections – stay tuned!